Plan for The Kitchen Garden

From The Kitchen Garden 1855

The Border
"A wide border (BB) will be carried entirely round the garden at the foot of the wall. This will serve according to aspect to raise early vegetables, to receive small seed beds of cabbages, lettuces and other things which are transplanted afterwards as well as those which require temporary pricking out such as celery, and part of it may be permanently occupied by sweet herbs, medicinal plants and other useful stock vegetables, part also may be devoted to horticultural experiments. It is convenient to have in a kitchen garden a little plot wherein to put surplus seeds and roots of flowers that are not wanted at the moment in the flower garden and the pleasure ground. Not only is it convenient to have such a supply in reserve to fall back upon in case of accident elsewhere but, as bouquets and cut flowers are always in request, these can be gathered ad libitum without fear of despoiling the parterre."

The Path
"A straight rectangular gravel path (PP) will go round the whole. Cross paths (pppp) will lead to the centre.... "

The Center
".. there should be, if not a fountain (F) with its basin to receive the water ejected, and always standing full ready for watering, at least a tank, or cistern, or shallow well, with a sufficient supply of water from some source or other."

The 4 Plots
".. there will remain in the middle, the four distinct open plots of ground (G G G G) which constitute the main body of the garden for cropping for the supply of vegetables in quantities."

Gardening In June

From The Kitchen and Fruit Gardener 1847

June

If the weather in this month prove dry, the growth of many esculent plants will be considerably retarded, particularly the beans and peas which are in flower, the blossoms of which fall off before arriving at maturity, and, consequently, are not succeeded by fruit. A certain degree of attention is therefore necessary to give a regular supply of water to the growing crops.

There is no work in the kitchen garden which at this time requires greater attention than the eradication of weeds; many will now begin to perfect their seeds, which, being shed on the ground, will occasion a considerable degree of labour for several years to accomplish their extirpation.

Every part of the kitchen garden should now be kept in a neat and well regulated condition; and a constant attention should be paid to the progress of all seeds committed to the ground. Those that vegetate freely should be forwarded by hoeing, thinning, and watering; and in those cases, where the seed has failed, it should be immediately resown: no time should be lost when such circumstances occur. Some crops such as beets, onions, parsnips, and some others, may be restored by transplanting them from those places where they may have come up too thick. The depredations of insects should be guarded against as much as possible, until the crops are rather advanced; for after they have formed their rough, or perfect leaves, few insects attack them, at least not so as to endanger the crop. When recourse is had to watering, it should be applied as late in the afternoon as possible, or early in the morning, but never during the middle of the day. When the ground can be kept in a moist state during the warm months of summer, the most luxuriant crops may be expected.

Beans and Peas for late crops should be sown both at the beginning and also at the end of this month. Those which are now in blossom should be examined and topped. Earth up and otherwise stir the surface of the advancing crops, as necessity may require. At this time, the crops which were formerly planted should be hoed and earthed up. Cabbage and broccoli plants which are fit should be planted out. Transplant spring sown cabbage of all sorts for autumn and winter use. Earth up the early and general crops of cabbage as they advance; the former will now be advancing to maturity, and may be forwarded in cabbaging, if the leaves be tied together with strings of matting. The general crops of onions should, towards the middle or end of the month, be cleared from weeds: this operation should be performed with a narrow hoe, which will not only destroy the weeds, but by stirring up the surface, will contribute much to the growth of the crop. The crops of potatos as they advance should be earthed up. Prick out celery plants sown in March: a slight watering to be given every other evening. Continue to sow and transplant all sorts of lettuces: give plenty of water both to the newly sown and also to the transplanted ones. Tie up to blanch the forward crops of lettuces; choosing a dry day for that purpose. A full crop of kidney beans may now be planted. Propagate by sowing, cuttings, or dividing the roots, all sorts of herbs. A small sowing of ruta baga may now be made, deferring the principal one till the middle of next month. Beets may also be sown for a late winter and spring supply; the early part of June will also be timely for the sugar beet, If not attended to the preceding month.

Kitchen Garden Plans

Taken from The Country Gentleman 1854

"PLAN OF A KITCHEN GARDEN
Where all the work is done with the spade, and no ornamental planting is desired, the plan furnished by our correspondent ("A Pupil of the Cultivator,") is a simple and good one, and no doubt as well adapted to the intended purpose as any we could furnish. In the country, where horse labor is always at command, a great saving is effected by laying out the kitchen garden so as to admit the use of the plow, subsoiler, cultivator, and harrow.

In the above figure (Fig 1), we have endeavored to show an arrangement for this purpose, where dwarf fruits trees, currant and gooseberry bushes, &c., are planted in continuous rows across the garden; the crops of vegetables being panted between, and the whole cultivated by a horse, which turns about at the ends on the spaces or alleys, a, a. The flower garden and ornamental part occupy a strip at the centre, on each side of tho alley, b, b. If desired this part may be wholly omitted. Fig 2, shows the more common way of laying out kitchen gardens into quarters, where, it will be observed, horse labor can not be introduced."

Here we have an illustration of "the more common way of laying out kitchen gardens into quarters". Notice they are not calling this a German Four Square Garden.

From The Gardener's Text-Book 1851

"INTERNAL ARRANGEMENTS

By the phrase "Internal Arrangements", we mean the division of the garden into quarters borders beds walks etc This laying out the ground must be regulated wholly by the taste of the gardener and we therefore venture to offer only a few hints in regard thereto instead of giving precise directions As far as our opinion may be worthy of notice we should recommend regular divisions made by the square and line Such are most easily laid out and most conveniently kept in order Serpentine walks with crescent star or bean shaped beds are all very appropriate for the flower garden but they seem hardly suited for such humble tenants as cabbages potatoes and onions It is a rule to be constantly borne in mind by the proprietor of a kitchen garden that his main object be utility rather than ornament.

At least one path should be of sufficient width to admit the wagon or cart which will be required at certain seasons to bring in dung or to carry off produce Foot paths need not be over three feet wide and the alleys between the beds not over twelve or eighteen inches The border extends all around the garden and is from six to ten feet wide with a foot path in front The beds ought to be narrow say four or five feet wide such being the most easy to cultivate The numerous alleys of course occupy a great deal of room but they possess the advantages of convenience and neatness in enabling the workmen to clean or gather the crops without trampling upon the beds The principal paths might be dug out to tire depth of two feet or more and then become places of deposit for the stones removed from the quarters A thin layer of gravel tan or even common earth would render the paths hard and dry to the feet at all seasons.

In connection with the above hints a diagram or plan of our own garden may be deemed not out of place It will be found on the following page It is in the shape of a parallelogram running east and west with the entrance on the south side The border inside the fence is about eight feet wide that part facing the west smith and east is adapted for such plants as require a warm exposure and the other for such as need shelter from the mid day sun In front of the border is a foot path three feet wide Directly in the centre of the garden is the tool house beneath which is a good location for a cistern Here meet the four principal paths winch divide the large plat into four equal parts or quarters as they are generally called by English gardeners These paths are of sufficient width to admit the wagon which can turn around the tool house and return through the same path so as to avoid the necessity of having more than one entrance The quarters are of equal size so that a four year rotation of crops may readily be observed The tool house and cistern being in the centre are convenient of access from every part of the grounds Currants gooseberries raspberries and quinces are set out on the edges of the principal paths running north and south and the grape vines are trained upon the fence Dwarf fruit trees might be placed in the border where neither their roots nor their tops would be likely to occasion much injury.

 This short description will enable any intelligent reader who approves of the plan to adopt it with such modifications as his own taste may suggest.

Although in this business of laying out a garden ornament is a mere secondary consideration yet perfect regularity and neatness are attained with little extra labor and they will certainly add much to the gardener's interest in the spot. The eccentric William Cobbett said that it is quite as reasonable for a man to take pleasure in a garden which is tastefully arranged and tidily kept as it is for a woman to delight in a fine dress and he will be as anxious to preserve the neat appearance of the beds and walks as she to protect her gown from dust or grease from being faded by the sun or eaten by moths. We all take best care of that which is most pleasant to the eye."

Tools for Lady Gardeners

Taken from Gardening For Ladies 1843 which is mostly about the art of flower gardening. However, I have found it useful and enlightening in the way people of the time thought of the frailty of woman as well as the tools that were made to accommodate such frailty. For anyone interested in flower gardening, there is a gardening calendar at the back of the book that would also be useful.

A Lady's Gauntlet of strong leather.

Lady's Wheel-barrow

Watering Pots for Green-House Plants

Props for Climbers

Cast Iron or Zinc Tally for the Open Ground

Porcelain Tally for Pots

Tallies for trees, as in the case of an Arboretum, which is to endure for many years, are formed of iron, stone, or brick; those for herbaceous plants, of iron or wood; and those for plants, in pots kept in houses, of porcelain, wood, lead, zinc, and sometimes, though rarely, of iron. Tallies for plants kept in nurseries in pots, are commonly of wood, on which a little white paint is rubbed with the finger, and the name written with a black lead pencil; those for plants taken up and packed to be sent to a distance, are commonly of parchment, with the name written in ink, but nursery labels are formed of wood and tied to trees, or of pieces of lead stamped with numbers.... The cheapest kind of Tally is a thin strip of zinc, painted white lead, and then written with a lead pencil; and these of zinc may be had cut into proper sizes, at the zinc manufacturers.

Strawberries

This information about strawberries is taken from A Dictionary of Modern Gardening, 1847:

Varieties
Hudson or Scarlet - Grown almost exclusively for the supply of the Philadelphia market. It is distinct from the old Hudson in New York. It is undoubtedly the best.

Methven Scarlet or Keene's - Very large variety, sometimes exceeding five inches, it is but indifferently flavoured, but much admired for preserving.

Hovey's Seedling - A newly developed strawberry that is among the best. However, it needs to have other varieties planted alone with it.

Ross's Phoenix - Much praised in New York. A new variety that is hurt by drought where others are uninjured.

Cushing - A new variety from Philadelphia or Boston. (I'm not sure)

Myatt's pine - will grow profusely on light, rich, sandy, alluvial soils, near the sea. In such situations other strawberries are apt to throw out too many runners; and for such Myatt's plan is well adapted.

Others Listed but not described:
White Alpine, Old Scarlet, Grove End Scarlet, Roseberry, Garnstone Scarlet, Myatt's Eliza, Old Pine, Myatt's British Queen, Large Flat Hauthois, American Scarlet, Downton, Elton, Coul's Late Scarlet, and Turner's Pine.

The chief bearing time of these is from the end of June to the middle of July, but the White Alpine produces successive crops until November. I have even gathered from them a dish late in December.

If Alpines are planted on south west, east, and north borders, they will give a succession of fruit from June till December.

Beds, four feet wide, should be marked out with a foot alley between each, which is highly necessary to prevent those who gather the fruit from treading between the plants, and lastly, the runners are planted two feet apart. A bed thus made will last three years, without requiring anything further, not even so much as a top dressing.

The surface of the soil should be covered with straw, or the mowings from grass plots, during the bearing season, to preserve moisture to the roots of the plants, and to keep the fruit from being dirt splashed.

Outdoor Seating

Having a place to sit and relax to admire your gardening accomplishments as well as the great out doors is very important. Here is what is said about outdoor seating in A Dictionary of Modern Gardening 1847.

SEATS

"SEATS require to be in unison with the portion of the pleasure grounds in which they are placed. In shady retired spots, they may be made of the limbs of trees, (see Rustic) but near the house, or among the parterres, where trimness is the prevailing characteristic, more art is desirable to be apparent in their construction. They may be made of wood, and so constructed as to shut up, so that the seat is never wet; and if painted annually they last for many years. Made of iron, they are more in appearance, and if painted yearly, will not iron mould dresses which rest upon them. Being made of open work, the wet does not rest upon them, and they are soon dry even after heavy rains. The following (Figs 153, 154) are made by Messrs. Dean, King William Street, London.

Ornamental Garden Fences

Here is an illustration of ornamental garden fences from A Dictionary of Modern Gardening, 1847.

"The figures 42, 43, 44, illustrate three simple designs, formed by straight slats or pales, and therefore of the least expense; they are readily executed, and agreeable from their simplicity. The colour which should be used, is of course a matter of taste; white is generally preferred, though dark shades, even jet black are the most pleasing to many."

I personally like the center one, painted white, for it's simplicity and ease of instillation.

It is interesting that the book also mentions a reference to a fence law passed in Pennsylvania in the 1700s stating that "all cornfields and grounds kept for inclosures within the said province and counties annexed shall be well fenced with fence at least five feet high and close at the bottom". Living in said province, I can personally attest to the need for such a fence especially around the corn as well as tomatoes, peas, lettuce, squash and anything else that you want to grow. Without a fence as described, you will loose all that you have planted to the deer. The need to make a law concerning this is a bit baffling however. By 1728, the book tell us, that the law had been amended to state that the fence only had to be 4 foot tall and could be off the ground as much as 9 inches but no more.

Gardening In May

From The Kitchen and Fruit Gardener 1847

May

Let all the coverings that may have been used to protect either winter or early spring crops, be now cleared away. Rough dig all vacant ground, and hoe and rake all the small borders. Use the hoe freely amongst crops of onions, spinach, &c. Destroy all weeds as they appear. Have all roots, docks, dandelions, and similar weeds, carefully dug up with a fork, and immediately removed from the garden. Be careful to destroy all snails and slugs.

After a shower of rain, draw the earth up to the stems of cabbages and cauliflower plants. Birds being very destructive to the seeds of all the cabbage tribe, it will therefore be necessary to guard them by covering the beds with mats, or with old fishing nets, until the seeds begin to vegetate.

Sow and plant all sorts of cabbages, and earth and clear from weeds the crops already planted. Take advantage of dry weather to stir the surface about the stems of all the forward crops of cabbages, by which they will be greatly strengthened. Sow full crops of savoys both at the beginning and end of the month.

Peas should be sown twice this month, or in succession, as the previous sowing appears above ground. Beans likewise, at similar intervals of time, when frequent crops are required. Of the dwarf kidney or bush beans, there are many varieties; among the better and more productive kinds, are the red and brown valentine, and China red eye.

The Lima and the Carolina, or Servee beans, may now be planted.

Rhubarb may be sown or planted. The large giant rhubarb is the most productive in the open ground, and Buck's scarlet for forcing.

Carrots should now be sown, - the long orange and the early horn, are the finest for table use. A full crop of parsneps should also be sown.

The celery plants which were sown in March or April, for an early crop, should be pricked out about the middle or latter end of this month, into a nursery bed of rich light earth.

Plant the main crop of potatos. This is the best month in the year for the purpose. Sets should now be used, cut to two or three eyes only.

Continue to sow and transplant lettuces of all sorts. Sow each sort separately, and repeat the sowings and plantings once every fortnight or three weeks, that a regular supply may be obtained. Sow radishes of different sorts every week during the summer. Give plenty of water in dry weather: if this be not attended to, they will be hard, and unfit for use. Thin the crops already sown.

Peppers or capsicums, and tomatos, may be sown for transplanting; cucumbers, squashes, nasturtiums, and other tender vegetables, may now be safely planted. All pot herbs such as thyme, sage, mint, balm, &c., should now be planted.

Gardening In April

From The Kitchen and Fruit Gardener 1847

April

This is the month in which most seeds are sown, and garden operations performed in the climate of Philadelphia. The weather has usually become, by the first fortnight in April, comparatively settled; severe frost may no longer be expected; therefore, if the earth be sufficiently dry, and the weather mild, the various branches of cropping should be attended to with diligence. No time should be lost in committing to the soil the requisite seeds and roots of plants.

In light dry soils, it will be an advantage to sow and plant early, whereby the plants will gain sufficient strength to resist the droughts of summer, but in such as are cold, wet, and late, the state of the weather must determine the time of sowing. It is always better to wait until the ground be in a fit state to receive the seed, than to sow too early, as many of the less hardy seeds will not vegetate freely, indeed, scarcely at all, if sown at this early period of the year, when the ground is wet. Rough dig all ground not immediately required.

The gravel walks should now be put in order for the season.

Plant beans of any kind, for all sorts succeed well from this time of planting. Now plant full supplies of the best sorts for principal crops. The Windsor and long podded beans may still be planted, if not previously done.

Sow marrowfat or other late peas, once a fortnight, or three weeks at farthest, particularly some dwarf green imperial marrowfats. All the sorts should now be sown in open situations, not under low spreading trees. Cover the peas that are a little above ground to within an inch of their whole height with light mould. If the weather be dry, give a little water to settle the mould about them; if frosty, protect them for a few nights with branches, or any other slight covering.

Remove the cauliflower plants which have been in frames, or in warm borders, during the winter. Raise some earth to the stems of the plants, which are under bell or hand glasses: it will strengthen them, and assist their growth.

The glasses may still be kept over the plants, but must be continually raised at least a hand's breadth high, or in fine days, the glasses may be taken off, and let the plants have the benefit of warm showers of rain.

The New Zealand spinach should be sown in a slight hot bed; it will spread, and afford an abundant supply.

It will be early enough, towards the middle or the end of the month, to sow broccoli; for if sown earlier, the plants are apt to start or button. The "purple cape" succeeds best in this climate.

Both red and white celery seed should be sown. If the seed be sown in rich vegetable mould, and kept rather moist, it will thrive the better. Water the bed frequently in dry weather.

Drumhead, Flat Dutch, and Savoy Cabbage seed, for the principal winter crop, should be sown about the middle or towards the latter end of the month, in an open situation.

Transplant cabbage plants of all kinds into the places where they are to remain to cabbage. It may be done the beginning or middle of this month, but if the plants be strong, the sooner it is now done, the better. Sow the seeds of cabbages of any kind for autumn and winter use. Red cabbage seed should also be sown towards the latter end of this month, to raise some plants for winter use.

Sow radishes, both the earlier sorts and the yellow turnip rooted, for a succession.

Continue to protect mushroom beds from frost and rain, either of which would destroy the spawn.

Onions should be sown for a general crop.

Gardening in March

From The Kitchen and Fruit Gardener 1847

March

A small crop of Peas of the early kinds may be sown about the beginning and of marrowfats and other larger sorts towards the end of the month in the open quarters of the garden. For the early and dwarf crops sown in the beginning of the month from three to four feet will be quite sufficient between the rows and three inches deep. The Early York, Landreth's Large York, and Early Sugar Loaf Cabbage, should be transplanted this month, where they are intended to remain. When the plants are pretty strong they may in mild open weather be planted out the beginning of the month but if they be weakly or much hurt by the frost they should not be planted out before the end of the month or the beginning of April.

Cauliflower plants in frames should have plenty of air every mild day by entirely removing the glasses. Towards the end of the month transplant some of the stronger plants into the place in the garden where they are intended to remain. Should cold chilly weather ensue great benefit will be found from protecting them especially at night; flower jars are for that purpose useful and of easy application easy application.

About the middle or end of the month carrot may be sown for an early crop on a light border or other sheltered spot but the beginning of April is soon enough to sow the principal crop. Crops of such seed as carrot and some others will at this early season be much benefited if the drills in which they are to be sown be half filled with light vegetable mould on which the seed must be sprinkled and then covered with the same kind of mould. In strong wet soils this should be particularly attended to as seeds will vegetate quicker and become established much sooner than if sown in the natural ground.

The crops of lettuces should be thinned out to twelve inches asunder every way and those taken out should be planted in a rich and sheltered spot at similar distances and sheltered spot at similar distances.

In open weather early potatos such as the Fox's Seedling and Ash leaved Kidney may be planted about the middle of the month sow leeks onions and lettuces and Early York and Landreth's Large York cabbages for succession. A small sowing of early turnip may be made in a very warm situation and on very rich ground, Asparagus seed may be sown in the open ground The long pod and Windsor beans should be planted as early as they Can be put into the ground so as to blossom before the heat arrives and if the weather be mild sow long scarlet and red turnip radish for the first early crop also spinach to succeed that sown in autumn.

This and the succeeding month are favourable for transplanting fruit trees. If the reader have occasion to purchase let us caution him against doing so from any but a responsible nurseryman above all avoid auction trees the most worthless in the nursery are frequently selected for those sales and with attractive names sent to some distant point where the purchaser cannot have redress when the deception practised on him is made evident which perhaps is not until after years of careful culture.

Another important matter connected with this subject is the method in which the trees are planted. Let it be done deliberately and with care if the ground in which you are about to plant be of an indifferent quality provide a liberal quantity of rich earth for each tree and cast aside that which is taken out of the holes. For an ordinary sized nursery tree the holes should be four or five feet across and nearly as many deep the excess in depth to be filled up with the good earth provided for that purpose when all is ready place the tree in the centre of the hole with the roots and fibres spread out horizontally or fan shaped and as the finely pulverized earth is shovelled in shake the tree gently to admit the earth among the fibres. When the hole is filled up to the proper level the tree should not stand more than a couple of inches deeper than it did before removal which can be readily determined by the colour of the bark. A stout stake to keep the tree steady is highly useful and if the ensuing warm weather be dry give a little water from time to time or what is even better protect the surface of the ground for a few feet around the tree with litter or any other material which will shade and arrest evaporation."

Gardening in February

From the Kitchen and Fruit Gardener 1847

February

"This month like January does not admit of much out door gardening in the neighbourhood of Philadelphia though further south it is the season of most active labour. From the Carolinas southward more seeds are put into the ground in February than any other month in the year and in that respect corresponds with the early part of April in Pennsylvania."

Gardening in January

From the Kitchen and Fruit Gardener 1847

"MONTHLY OPERATIONS IN THE KITCHEN GARDEN
The precise time when certain descriptions of work in the garden is to be performed as stated in the following calendar applies to the latitude of Philadelphia but by the exercise of a little judgment these hints may be made serviceable in every latitude of our widely extended country.

January

During this month but little may be done in the kitchen garden and we may as well pass on without further remark than that it is the season when preparation may be made for spring labour by collecting manure, preparing poles for beans, rods for peas &c &c. Those who have green houses or forcing pits will find plenty to attend to but this work does not profess to treat of such matters."