Candied Fruit

"Candied Fruit - Any fruit or peel which has been first preserved in syrup may be candied.
Take the fruit out of the syrup and let it drain on sieves; then dip the sieve with the fruit into lukewarm water, to wash off the syrup from the surface; take it out, let it drain, and dry it in the stove. Boil some fresh syrup to the blow; put in the fruit and give it a boil in it. The fruit when it is put in will reduce the sugar, it must therefore be boiled to the same degree again. With a spoon or spatula rub the sugar against the side of the pan, to grain it; when it begins to whiten put the fruit in the white part separately: with two forks take it out and lay it on sieves or wire frames, for the sugar to drain from it."    From The Complete Confectioner, Pastry-cook, and Baker: Plain and Practical  1864

Boiled Custard

From Mrs. Beeton's Dictionary of Every-day Cookery
"CUSTARDS, Boiled Ingredients - 1 pint of milk, 5 eggs, 3 oz of loaf sugar, 3 laurel leaves or the rind of fresh lemon, or a few drops of essence of vanilla, 1 tablespoonful of brandy.
Mode - Put the milk into a lined saucepan with the sugar and whichever of the above flavourings may be preferred, the lemon rind flavours custards most deliciously, and let the milk steep by the side of the fire until it is well flavoured. Bring it to the point of boiling then strain it into a basin, whisk the eggs well and when the milk has cooled a little, stir in the eggs and strain this mixture into a jug. Place this jug in a saucepan of boiling water over the fire keep stirring the custard one way until it thickens, but on no account allow it to reach the boiling point, as it will instantly curdle and be full of lumps. Take it off the fire, stir in the brandy and when this is well mixed with the custard, pour it into glasses which should be rather more than three parts full, grate a little nutmeg over the top and the dish is ready for table To make custards look and eat better, ducks eggs should be used when obtainable, they add very much to the flavour and richness and so many are not required as of the ordinary eggs, 4 ducks eggs to the pint of milk making a delicious custard. When desired extremely rich and good cream should be substituted for the milk and double the quantity of eggs used to those mentioned, omitting the whites.
Time - A hour to infuse the lemon rind about l8 minutes to stir the custard. Average cost fid Sufficient to fill 8 custard glasses Seasonable at any time."

I used a double boiler instead of a jug. I used vanilla and omitted the brandy. The image from the book reminded me of my punch glasses, so I used them.

I put the (2 cups) milk in a saucepan with the sugar and vanilla and brought it to a boil. Once the sugar dissolved, I let it cool while I mixed the eggs. I used 8 egg yolks and 3 strained whites instead of 5 eggs because I'm not very good at keeping the whites from cooking, and making the custard chunky. I mixed a little of the milk in with the beaten eggs and then added it to the pot. I heated and stirred it in a double boiler until it became firm. It filled 7 small glasses, topped with nutmeg. Ours were served chilled since I made them ahead of time.

We liked these very much!

My custards served in punch cups

Corn Bread

Most of the recipes that I have found for corn bread use milk or vigorous stirring as the leaven. I am not good at those methods. Here is one that I have found for plain corn bread. This is not a sweet corn bread as there is no sugar or other sweetener added. It is also not savory as there are no herbs or seasoning.

From the Cook Book 1855
"CORN BREAD 1 lb corn meal, 1 tablespoonful butter, 2 eggs, 2 teaspoonsful of cream tartar, and 1 of soda, and mix with milk to be a thick batter. Mix the cream of tartar with the meal, mix soda in a little milk and do not add it until you are ready to pour it into the pan to bake. Grease your pans well."

There were several references as to what corn bread should be cooked in. Some called for a round cake tin and others described more of a bread pan type. I prefer to use a round cake tin.

Modern Translation: Pre-heat the oven to 350. Have ready 2 overly buttered cake tins. Beat together 2 tsp cream of tartar, 1 lb corn meal, 1 Tbs butter, 2 eggs, 1 tsp soda and 1.5-2 cups milk. The mixture should be a thick batter. The milk should be added 1/2 cup at a time. Pour half of the batter in each tin. Bake for 45 minutes. Check doneness with a toothpick. When it comes out clean, it's done. The corn bread should be pulling away from the sides of the pan. Let it rest for a moment, loosen the edges with a heat resistant spatula, turn out on a cooling rack. Once it is totally cooled, slice in wedges.

If the tins are not buttered enough, it will stick. You could also butter and flour the tins if you like or use paper in the bottom of your pan. This second method is what I will most likely do the next time I make this.

I do not care for the taste of this cornbread, plain. I can only eat it smothered with thick cream butter. Personally, I like modern sweet corn bread. However, I think that would be more like mid-century corn cakes.

Tongue

"No 12 A Tongue. This is sliced, not very thin, through the thickest and best part, shown by the letters a b. The fat of the root, when it is liked must be carved by turning the tongue, and cutting in the direction c d."

"HAMBURGH PICKLE FOR BEEF HAMS AND TONGUE Boil together for twenty minutes two gallons of water three pounds of bay salt two pounds of coarse sugar two ounces of saltpetre and two of black pepper bruised and tied in a fold of muslin clear off the scum thoroughly as it rises pour the pickle into a deep earthen pan and when it is quite cold lay in the meat of which every part must be perfectly covered with it A moderate sized round of beef will be ready for table in a fortnight it should be turned occasionally in the brine Five pounds of common salt may be substituted for the quantity of bay salt given above but the meat will not be so finely flavoured Water 2 gallons bay salt 3 lbs saltpetre 2 oz black pepper 2 oz sugar 2 lbs 20 minutes."

"ANOTHER PICKLE FOR TONGUES BEEF AND HAMS To three gallons of spring water add six pounds of common salt two pounds of bay salt two pounds of common loaf sugar and two ounces of saltpetre Boil these over a gentle fire and be careful to take off all the scum as it rises when quite cold it will be fit for use Rub the meat to be cured with fine salt and let it drain for a day in order to free it from the blood then immerse it in the brine taking care that every part of it shall be covered Young pork should not remain more than from three to five days in the pickle but hams for drying may be left in it for a fortnight at least tongues will be ready in rather less time Beef may remain from one week to two according to its size and the degree of saltiness desired for it A little experience will soon teach the exact time required for the different kinds of meat When the pickle has been in use for about three months boil it up again gently and take the scum carefully off Add to it three pounds of common salt four ounces of sugar and one of saltpetre it will remain good for many months Water 3 gallons common salt 6 lbs bay salt 2 lbs loaf sugar 2 lbs saltpetre 2 oz boil 20 to 30 minutes."

"BEEF TONGUES A Suffolk Receipt For each very large tongue mix with half a pound of salt two ounces of saltpetre and three quarters of a pound of the coarsest sugar rub the tongues daily and turn them in the pickle for five weeks when they will be fit to be dressed or to be smoked 1 large tongue salt J lb sugar J lb saltpetre 2 oz 5 weeks."

"TO DRESS BEEF TONGUES When taken fresh from the pickle they require no soaking unless they should have remained in it much beyond the usual time or have been cured with a more than common proportion of salt but when they have been smoked and highly dried they should be laid for two or three hours into cold and as much longer into tepid water before they are dressed if extremely dry ten or twelve hours must be allowed to soften them and they should always be brought very slowly to boil Two or three carrots and a large bunch of savoury herbs added after the scum is cleared off will improve them They should be simmered until they are extremely tender when the skin will peel from them easily A highly dried tongue of moderate size will usually require from three and a half to four hours boiling an unsmoked one about an hour less and for one which has not been salted at all a shorter time will suffice."

"BORDYKE RECEIPT FOR STEWING A TONGUE After the tongue has been soaked trimmed and washed with extreme nicety lay it into a vessel of fitting size and place round it three or four pounds of the neck or of any other lean cuttings of beef with some bones of undressed veal and pour in sufficient cold water to keep it covered until it is done or instead of this use strong unseasoned beef broth made with the shin and any odd bits or bones of veal which may be at hand Let the tongue be brought to boil very gradually that it may be plump and tender Remove the scum when it first rises and when it is quite cleared off add a large faggot of parsley thyme and winter savoury three rrots a small onion and one mild turnip After three hours and a half of gentle simmering probe the tongue and if sufficiently done peel off the skin and serve it quickly If not wanted hot for table lay it upon a very clean board or trencher and fasten it down to it by passing a carving fork through the root and a smaller one through the tip drawing the tongue straight with the latter before it is fixed in the board let it remain thus until it is quite cold It is much the fashion at present to glaze hams and tongues but this should never be attempted by a cook not well acquainted with the manner of doing it and the proper flavour and appearance of the glaze For directions to make it see page 104 Where expense is not regarded three or four pounds of veal may be added to the beef in this receipt or the tongue may be stewed in a prepared gravy made with equal parts of beef and veal and vegetables as above but without salt this may afterwards be converted into excellent soup A fresh or an un smoked tongue may be dressed in this way but will require less time for the former salt must be added to the gravy."

From Modern Cookery for Private Families 1860

 

It is mentioned in Every Lady's Cook Book 1856, that "Cold biscuit sliced thin and buttered and a very thin slice of boiled ham, tongue, or beef between each two slices of biscuit is best" for sandwiches. There is also mention of mustard in these. So, I decided to provide tongue and biscuit sandwiches at our next picnic. I have made boiled tongue before and it is good but doesn't really have any taste. I wanted to try a pickle recipe this time and then boil it. So, I needed to pickle/brine the tongue that I picked up from The Family Cow.

 

I used a modified version, combining several of the above listed recipes. I only had one tongue to make so I really didn't need a lot of pickle/brine. I combined 1/2 gallon of water, 1/2 lb of kosher salt and 3/4 lb of raw sugar. I slowly brought this to a boil and then held it for 20 minutes. Once it was cool, I soaked the tongue for 4 days, covered in the fridge.

 

Once the pickling/brining was done, I  boiled it with carrots and herbs until it was tender, about 3 hours, and laid it out to cool. It was then peeled and sliced and arranged on a plate with mustard.

Gather with Food

We had a gathering with food this past weekend. I haven't done enough research to be able to name the type of gathering so I will not even try. Here is an image of my buffet table:

The menu was based on picnic fare. In the center front is a plate of toast cruets. I have no idea if that is something that would have been offered, and it was supposed to be biscuits, but honestly after making everything else.... we just made toast from store bought bread. Sorry.

Surrounding the toast from left to right is pickled tongue with mustard, baked chicken and hard boiled eggs.

In addition there were (on the left) sliced tomatoes, potato salad, baked beans, (on the right) pickled onions, butter, (in the back) apple pie, vanilla custard and green tomato pie.

Besides the toast, I cheated with the potato salad. I had tried a period version of potato salad and it turned out horrible, so we went with a modern version. It really isn't much of a stretch though because the ingredients for the sauce is very similar to those found in modern mayonnaise. I also used modern butter, brown mustard and (not pictured) vanilla ice cream.

There were 7 in attendance and there was plenty left over. Everyone enjoyed the meal.

Baked Beans

"Baked Pork and Beans
For a family of six or seven take a quart of white beans, wash them in several waters, and put them into two or three quarts over night. In the morning, when it will be easier to cull out the bad ones than before they were soaked, pick them over and boil them until they begin to crack open, then put them into a brown pan such as are made for the purpose. Pour upon them enough of the water they were boiled in almost to cover them. Cut the rind of about a pound of salt pork into narrow strips, lay it on the top of the beans and press it down so that it will lie more than half its thickness in the water. Bake several hours, four or five is not too much. Where a brick oven is used it is well to let beans remain in it over night. If they are baked in a stove or range more water may be necessary before they are done.

Many persons think it a decided improvement to put in a large spoonful or two of molasses. It is a very good way.

Those who object to the use of pork can have a very good dish of beans by substituting two table spoonfuls of nice beef drippings and adding two teaspoonfuls of salt.

To heat over baked beans, put them in a spider with a little water heat them slowly at first and cover close. If they are too moist remove the cover and stir them often."

From The Young Housekeeper's Friend 1862

I made this for a picnic. I'm not a fan of molasses but used it anyway.

Modern Translation: Use the modern directions for quick soaking the beans by boiling them in water for 2 minutes, removing them from the heat and covering them for 1 hour. Drain and rinse the beans.  In fresh water, simmer them until they started to crack, about 1 hour. Drain the beans but save the water. Put the beans in a bean pot or casserole dish with 2 tablespoons of molasses, 2 teaspoons salt, 2 tablespoons of beef drippings and enough of the cook water to cover them. Bake at 350 for 3 hours.

They turned out great. I served them in small bean pots and they looked great.

Green Tomatoes

Our tomatoes are just not turning red. We have loads of green ones just staying green with no sign of change. Here are a few recipes for green tomatoes that I have found. I will probably update this next week as we have a picnic to cook for.

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

"Green Tomato Pie - Scald green tomatoes, peel and slice them thin, lay them in a deep plate and plenty of sugar, a little lemon peel. Cover with a thick crust. Bake one hour."

From The Practical Housekeeper 1855

 

Green Tomato Pie Translation: Plunge large, green tomatoes in boiling water until the skins peel back. Take out of the boiling water and plunge into cold water. Peel off the skins, slice them thin, drain them and lay them in a deep plate. Add a cup of sugar and some lemon. Cover with your favorite pie crust and bake for an hour at 350 degrees.

 

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"Green Tomato Pickle Cut in thin slices one peck of green tomatoes sprinkle them with salt and let them stand a day or two. Slice ten or twelve small onions. Mix together one bottle or small tin box of mustard, half an ounce of mustard seed, one ounce of cloves, one ounce of pimento, two ounces of turmeric. Put in the kettle a layer of tomatoes, then one of onions and spice till all are in. Cover it with good vinegar and let it simmer till the tomatoes are quite clear."

From Mrs Hales Recipes For The Million 1857

 

"GREEN TOMATO PICKLES Take any size, but those ready to ripen are the best, place them in a vessel and throw on a hand full of salt, cover with boiling water and let them stand till cold then slice them through transversely once or twice, according to the size, then lay them in a crock with thin sliced onions. Prepare the vinegar with cloves, cinnamon, and allspice, and pour on hot. Cover and set away for a few days. They will be found very delicious and will keep all winter. Those who dislike onions may omit them."

From Practical American Cookery 1860

 

 

  

Pickled Onions

"Pickled Onions - Boil small onions (until about half cooked) in salted water then while hot drop them into a jar of spiced vinegar. Pepper is the best spice for this vinegar."

From Breakfast, Dinner and Tea 1860

 

"PICKLED ONIONS Take the smallest onions that can be procured, just after they are harvested, for they are never in so good a state for the purpose as then proceed, after having peeled them, exactly as for the eschalots, and when they begin to look clear, which will be in three or four minutes put them into jars, and pour the pickle on them. The vinegar should be very pale, and their colour will then be exceedingly well preserved. Any favourite spices can be added to it."

 

" PICKLED ESCHALOTS For a quart of ready peeled eschalots, add to the same quantity of the best pale white wine vinegar, a dessertspoonful of salt, and an ounce of whole white pepper; bring these quickly to a boil, take off the scum, throw in the eschalots, simmer them for two minutes only, turn them into a clean stone jar, and when they are quite cold tie a skin, or two folds of thick paper over it.

Eschalots, 1 quart; vinegar, 1 quart; salt, 1 dessertspoonful; whole white pepper, 1 oz

Obs. - The sooner the eschalots are pickled after they are ripe and dry, the better they will be."

From Modern Cookery 1858.

 

I made 3 batches of these.  My onions are a type that is comparable to shallots so I was happy to find the pickled onion and pickled shallot recipes were so similar. I started with the recipe for Pickled Eschalots.

 

For my first batch I substituted apple cider vinegar and whole black pepper corn for the white wine vinegar and whole white pepper. I had 2 quarts of onions, so I doubled the recipe, except for the pepper. For that, I used only 3/4 of an ounce for the whole batch. While I was making it I didn't think it would be edible. However, these fit at the table of a poor farm family that is making due with what they have.

 

For my second batch, I used white vinegar and half as much ground white pepper. I had 3 quarts of onions, so I multiplied the recipe accordingly. It looks very nice.

 

For my third batch, I used white wine vinegar and whole white pepper. I had 2 quarts of onions, so I doubled the recipe. These are the best but the white wine vinegar was not as clear as the white vinegar. However, my onions are not a white type but instead a white with purple shoulders type.

 

I used the directions, from a modern canning book, for processing the onions. I salt brined the onions over night and rinsed them in the morning. Then I prepared the vinegar, salt and pepper and brought that to a boil. The onions were packed into clean hot jars and the boiling vinegar was poured over them. It was processed in a water bath canner for 10 minutes.

Peaches

PEACH SALAD.

Peel four or five ripe, juicy peaches, and slice them neatly, and have each slice as much alike as possible in shape and thickness; lay them in a glass dish, and cover them with loaf-sugar, pour over them a spoonful of brandy or wine; turn them off the top to the bottom, so they may all be seasoned alike.
The most of fruits may be prepared in the same way; but never mix fruits.

TO PRESERVE PEACHES WHOLE.

Take the cling-stone peaches before entirely ripe, wash them and put them in a jar; put a tablespoonful of pearlash to some soft water, and pour it over them boiling hot; cover them, and let them stand all night, then put them into cold water, wash and wipe them well; and to every pound of peaches, have a pound of loaf-sugar. Make a syrup of the sugar, and put the peaches in it while hot; simmer them slowly till they are done, take the peaches out, and boil the syrup down till it is quite thick. Put the peaches in jars, pour the syrup over them, and when cold cover them with paper dipped in brandy.

TO PRESERVE PEACHES.

Select good plum-peaches, pare, and cut them from the stone. Take equal weights of fruit and crushed sugar, lay them in an earthen vessel, and let them remain all night. In the morning, drain the fruit from the syrup, place it in dishes, and set it in the sun. Put the syrup into a preserving pan, and boil it three hours, skimming it well; then put the fruit into jars, and pour syrup over every two or three layers of fruit until the jar is filled; observe that the fruit must be entirely covered with syrup. Cover them tightly with brandied paper, and set them in a dry place.

BRANDY PEACHES.

Take the best cling-stone peaches, wash and wipe them, to get the furze off, prick them with a needle, and scald till you can pierce the skin with a straw. Make a syrup with loaf-sugar, taking three-quarters of a pound of sugar to every pound of peaches. Let the syrup boil till it is quite thick, then let it cool, and when it is milk-warm, put an equal quantity of good brandy with it, and pour it over the fruit.

PEACH PIE.

Slice some nice, ripe peaches, very thinly, put them in a dish, and sprinkle them with sugar; let them stand an hour; have ready some rich puff-paste, line your plates neatly, and fill them full; add some more sugar, and bake them in half an hour.

PUFF-PASTE.

To a pound and a quarter of sifted flour, rub gently in with the hand, half a pound of fresh butter; mix it up with half a pound of fresh butter; mix it up with half a pint of spring-water. Knead it well, and set it by for a quarter of an hour; then roll it out thin, lay on it, in small pieces, three-quarters of a pound more of butter, throw on it a little flour, double it up in folds, and roll it out thin three times, and set it by an hour in a cold place.

PEACH-WATER ICE.

Take one pound of the pulp of ripe peaches, half a pint of syrup, half a pint of water, the juice of two lemons, and mix them well. If the fruit is not ripe enough to pulp, open them and take out the stones, put them in a stewpan with the syrup and water, boil until tender, and pass them through a sieve; mix in the pounded kernels; when cold, freeze.

From The Great Western Cookbook 1857

Radishes

 "Radishes are of three sorts; the long red, the small button or turnip radish, and the winter or white radish.

Radishes should be fresh pulled and tender, to be in perfection for the palate, or to be healthful; to many persons they are positively injurious.

To prepare them for the table cut off all tho leaves, leaving about an inch of the stalk, trim them neatly, and lay them in cold water for an hour, serve the long ones in a tumbler or celery glass half filled with water, serve the small ones on a plate; they are generally eaten with salt only; they may be served cut in thin slices, with vinegar, pepper and salt over."

From The American System of Cookery 1864

Sandwiches

"Sandwiches
These are made of different articles but always in the same manner.

Cold biscuit sliced thin and buttered and a very thin slice of boiled ham, tongue. or beef between each two slices of biscuit is best.

Home made bread cuts better for sandwiches than baker's bread.

The meat in sandwiches is generally spread with mustard, the most delectable are those made with boiled smoked tongue."

From Every Lady's Cook Book 1856